2012
Feb
11
Suit genealogy: a Dior Homme suit history
by Plush|11 February 2012

Located in Northern Italy since it was founded in 2001, the Dior Homme Suit Factory calls on the incomparable savoirfaire of Italian craftsmen tailors recognized the world over.

Developed through close collaboration between the Parisian Design Studio, working from the sketches of Dior Homme Creative Director Kris Van Assche, each Dior Homme suit necessitates five weeks of work.

An exclusive choice of fabrics, hand cutting, traditional animal fiber interlining sewn - not ironed on - intricate pressing of the shoulder line, invisible holding stitches, top collar insertion following long-held rules, revers seams and buttons sewn by hand, constant quality control.

So many steps that go into making a Dior Homme suit, in its ideal simplicity, and in the image of a made-to-measure suit, a unique item.

9 stages from design to delivery

1. Sketch and pattern

The Dior Homme Studio sends the manufacturer the technical elements necessary for the creation of a piece by Kris Van Assche.

Upon receipt, a paper pattern is produced for each design.

It will serve as the base for the execution of unique pattern blocks, cutting the fabric, and devising size grading using computer technology.

2. Choice of materials

Selected from a choice of traditional Italian fabrics or very inventive Japanese ones, each bolt of fabric is the subject of an intense quality control before being laid out in stacked layers on a computer-controlled cutting table.

3. Cutting

Cutting out of all the elements of a suit is trusted to a single machine.

It's the guarantee that the use of a single piece of fabric can provide.

The metal pattern blocks for cutting out top collars and revers are exclusive to each model.

These elements, especially characteristic of Dior Homme suits, are then cut out by hand.

4. Assembly

The traditional assemblage of the three constituent elements of the body of a Dior Homme jacket (lining, fabric, interlining) is an expression of the quality of contruction that comes from the couture spirit of the House of Dior.

The inner construction of a jacket is its soul.

Dior Homme jackets are entirely mounted.

The canvas gives the jacket its elegance, its lightness, but also its substance and hold.

The mouting operation is one of the most delicate and requires a level of experience that only a long tradition can guarantee.

The interlining, the internal part betweeen the fabric and lining, is essential here.

Its composition based on high-quality materials, is minutely studied.

Similarly, for the Dior Homme sleeves, the interlining is made up of five elements, all of natural origin.

5. Basting

An operation essential to the elegance of the suit.

Unlike the majority of factory-made suits which use iron-on interfacing, Dior Homme suits are entirely sewn.

Basting allows for the perfect positioning of the mounting on the fabric and obtaining a stiffness subtly adjusted to the lines of the body.

6. Mounting operations

Entirely made up of natural materials, the mounting must be washed and dried with care to maintain its strength and elasticity.

As a standard, mountings come in camel fibers and horse hair.

Just as in bespoke Italian suiting.

With the treatment of mountings being crucial, the task is handled by a specialized team.

The mountings are then assembled by hand on a ribbon in order to balance the more and less rigid zones of the jacket.

The strengthening panels are sewn first, these are then sewn in between the outer fabric and the lining.

7. Setting of collar and sleeves

Before sewing the sleeve to the body of the jacket a shoulder pad is placed on and sewn to the interlining.

The shoulder is further reinforced with a special piece called 'rollino.'

This strengthens the shoulder and ensures the characteristic hang of a Dior Homme jacket.

The armhole is sewn by hand, ensure perfect wearability and impeccable comfort.

The sleeve head is tacked in with a line of stitches from top to bottom of the shoulder.

The collar is tacked and sewn by hand, starting with the notch of one revers and moving to the notch opposite.

Once all the outer seams are finished the lining is sewn in by hand.

Each  jacket is then carefully inspected by an artisan as the tacks are being removed.

8. Pressing

Throughout the assembly process the fabrics are pressed many times in order to maintain their shape.

Each part of a jacket has its own corresponding board and iron: for the pressing of the collar and shoulders a special curved ironding board adapted to the shape of this area is used.

The shoulder is molded on a board modeled after the shouder line of a mannequin.

The pressers specialize in the ironing of one specific piece of the garment.

9. Finising & quality control

The finishing of a Dior Homme suit necessitates numerous hours of work.

Buttons are sewn individually by expert hands of the artisans, while the buttonholes are produced by machine to ensure the clean, sharp look that characterizes each suit.

Each step in the production process is followed by a very strict quality control.

At the time of the final control the conformity of the suit is assessed with the aid of patterns specially created for this purpose.

Even the slightest irregularity means the item being immediately sent to the repairs workshop to be reworked.

It's only after this series of checks that a Dior Homme suit is deemed suitable for store delivery.

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